Last year we recently posted a blog explaining the difference between different types of Marvin windows and doors. However, we did leave some questions unanswered. After watching a video that we posted on another site, one of our subscribers still had a few questions. Most of their questions were about the main differences between aluminum and fiberglass options.
What’s the difference between aluminum and fiberglass?
The Marvin Signature series is the window selection that would have Aluminum cladding as an option. The Marvin Essential and Elevate series both have fiberglass as their core. Let’s compare these lines to each other based on each component.
Window Core
The Marvin Signature series’s core composition is wood, while the core of the Marvin Essential and Elevate Series is fiberglass. Some of our clients prefer a wood window, so we offer the Marvin Signature (Ultimate) to them. The wood core does have some thermal resistance; however, the fiberglass core has a slight performance edge when it comes to energy efficiency. The difference is minimal, so most of our clients do not choose the core based on energy efficiency.
Window Glass
The performance of the glass is pretty much the same for all the windows given the same specifications. If you choose a divided light option, then the performance goes down a littler versus glass clear from edge to edge. The Marvin Signature uses aluminum cladding, which is slightly more conductive than fiberglass. However, both are applied with a tape that does provide a thermal break. The glass performance does matter. Ensure you design the glass based on your climate zone and where the windows are on the house.
Cladding options
Besides the core, the cladding is where you see the biggest difference between the wood core and fiberglass core options. The only options you have for the exterior surface of the Marvin Signature windows and doors are “wood” and “aluminum cladding.” The wood is not a cladding for the Signature series. It is part of the sash and assembly, so it still needs a finish coat applied to it, or the elements will cause failure. The extruded aluminum has a very durable coating called Kynar. This finish is tested to be fade and failure resistant for several decades in areas with direct sunlight.
The fiberglass windows (Essential and Elevate) only have fiberglass as the exterior surface. The Elevate series is slightly different from the essential in that it has wood cladding on the inside of the window or door. This allows for a stain to be added to it or custom paint, not in the standard options for fiberglass.
Both the aluminum and fiberglass come in standard colors, so you don’t have to paint them. If you even did want the option to paint them, the fiberglass is much easier to apply a coating to that of the aluminum. You can’t go to your local hardware store and Kynar. If you want to change the sash and frame color in the future, we recommend Marvin Essential or Elevate series.
Durability
Both fiberglass and aluminum clad options are very durable. The warranty on the finish for the aluminum was 20 years, according to their site. This is much better than the oil-based coatings, which will show discoloration between 2-5 years.
Most Marvin showroom has a display showing a metal weight pulling down on a fiberglass sash. Compared to a composite or PVC window, there is minimal deflection in fiberglass. Marvin does not make an all-aluminum window. They are very inefficient unless they have a thermal break. Fiberglass has a higher strength to weight ratio than aluminum. However, this is not a fair comparison since the cladding does not add strength to windows and doors.
Fiberglass may have an edge in coastal environments since it is resistant to the elements and potential corrosion from the salt-water.
Is the fiberglass option more expensive?
You would think that the Marvin Elevate series would be the most costly option due to its versatility. However, that is not the case. The Marvin Signature series costs more due to the extra manufacturing it takes to process and mill the wood. Aluminum is also slighting more expensive to work with. Aluminum needs the extra step of coating it after it is shaped. The fiberglass has the pigments added, so they are the same color through the core.
Which one is easier to work with?
If you have a Marvin Signature Series and Marvin Essential placed side by side, you won’t see a significant difference. This also applies to ease of installation. They can both come with nail fins. They also install the same, and flashing details are the same for both. The main indicator that they are different is that cladding is either aluminum or is fiberglass. Both have a wood appearance on the interior.
What is a “thermal break”?
Highly conductive materials used on window and door construction such as aluminum or steel are very inefficient in more circumstances. During the summer months, the sun’s heat will add to the cooling load of the structure in warm climate zones. Conversely, in the winter months, the heat you are paying for will travel through these materials to the house’s exterior. To minimize heat loss or heat gain, a “thermal break” is needed. This is simply a not conductive material, so the heat will not continue to transfer through it and will “break” at that point. The core of Marvin windows and doors are either wood or fiberglass, which both resist heat transfer, so an additional thermal break is not needed.
Which is best for your project?
Any Marvin product is going to work well on your home. We usually don’t go through each of these benefits with our clients and narrow them down based on the design. Each line comes in different shapes and sizes, so that might be the limiting factor. Marvin Signature will be the best option if you want a custom window to replace an existing one in a 200-year-old church.
We typically start with Marvin Elevate, the fiberglass core with wood cladding on the interior because it is the most versatile. We started getting pushback from some of our clients on the higher end lines. Not due to the price. They wanted the option to be able to paint in 10 years. The Kynar finish is designed to last decades. Therefore, it should not be painted. However, the fiberglass can be painted, even though it was not designed to be or recommended.
If you have additional questions about windows and doors and want a consultation for your home, contact us today. We will set up a time to discuss the best solution for you.
The month of January is dedicated to raising awareness about radon gas. As a nation, we take this time to acknowledge the threat of this toxic gas along with other home air quality hazards. Mold and asbestos are two prevalent hazards that can compromise home air quality as well. The most important part about sustaining a healthy living environment is knowing what to look for and properly dealing with such hazards.
Radon
Radon is a naturally occurring radioactive gas that is harmful to humans if exposed for prolonged periods of time. It is caused by the breakdown of radioactive metals like uranium, radium, and thorium found deep underground. When present in the area, radon gas often infiltrates a home’s air supply through gaps and openings in its foundations. There is also the possibility of it seeping into the water supply and corrupting the home air quality through that. This becomes a problem when the contaminated water is used, releasing radon into the air and serving as another outlet for direct exposure.
What makes this airborne toxin such a threat is its nearly untraceable characteristics. The colorless gas has no odor or taste. Without proper air quality testing and diagnosis in a house, radon can easily go unnoticed. Symptoms of exposure include, but are not limited to, wheezing, hoarseness, persistent cough, chronic chest pain, and frequent infections such as recurring bronchitis and pneumonia. Long-term exposure will often cause further damage to the human body, inducing prolonged health complications that may become chronic or even life-threatening. Certain types of lung cancer are now being attributed to radon exposure as it increases the risk. These effects are quite alarming, considering that 1 in 15 homes are estimated to have elevated radon levels. So what can you do to stop it?
One way to protect against radon is to inspect the home yourself routinely. Look out for cracks and openings in your home, especially in basements or ground floors. Be sure to invest in an air quality monitor, as this will provide you with an accurate reading of your home’s air quality. Lastly, if exposure is suspected, hire a professional or licensed expert to examine your home. This will bring your whole family peace of mind that you’re living in a healthy environment.
Mold & Asbestos
Aside from radon, two hazards that may be present in your home are mold and asbestos. These substances will compromise your home’s air quality and wreak havoc on your health if they are not identified and mitigated properly. While both pose serious health risks, they often can go undetected in a home.
Mold is a type of fungus that grows in a place of excess moisture. It may appear green, black, blue, or even white at times. These excess moisture places are caused by high humidity levels, flooding, exterior leaks, plumbing issues, HVAC malfunctions, and improper ventilation. Such conditions will cause mold growth on floor tiles, ceiling tiles, drywall, insulation, and frameworks. Unsanitary conditions and poorly kept living quarters will lead to mold growth as well. It’s important to keep these items in good condition with the tendency to develop in wooden fixtures, carpet, fabric, and other upholstery.
A few dangerous types of mold that can develop in a home are Stachybotrys (Black Mold), Chaetomium, and Aspergillus. Once in the air, mold spores can cause respiratory issues, flu-like symptoms, headaches, and even memory loss. Ways to prevent mold growth and its health effects are:
Control the moisture levels.
Purchase a humidity monitor to keep track of the moisture.
Add a dehumidifier to areas that are mold-prone.
Take care of spills, damp materials and clean your home regularly.
Hire a professional to inspect the home, maintain appliances and the HVAC system.
Asbestos was a popular additive that was used in construction mainly for fireproofing and heat resistance. It wasn’t until 1989 that asbestos use became partially banned in the United States. If asbestos is found in materials like drywall, adhesive, floor tiles, popcorn ceilings, pipe wrap, and electrical insulation, they are referred to as asbestos-containing materials ACMs. These ACMs can break down and release debris into the air. Researchers found exposure to the substance when airborne is hazardous and could even cause acute health problems years after exposure. While the substance is more common in older homes and buildings, any homeowner needs to be wary of the materials used when building or renovating the home. If you suspect ACMs are a threat in your home, it is best to hire a professional to inspect and test the materials in question.
Asbestos exposure is something that can’t be taken lightly. Where radon and mold have immediate health consequences, the inhalation of these microscopic fibers can cause many health issues anywhere from 10-50 years down the road. Asbestosis, mesothelioma, and pleural effusion are just a few severe diseases to name.
So whether it’s radon, mold, or asbestos, homeowners should keep detailed records of all foundational issues and construction or renovation projects done in the past. A home’s history will tell a lot about its future and environment.
In spite of the pandemic, we made it through 2020. This video best explains some of the exciting things that we were working on in 2020 to make you customer experience better in 2021:
I do have fond memories of spending time with friends at the clock ticked midnight ushering in the year 2000. A new day, a new, a new decade and a new millennium all occurred at the same time. There were also other fun celebrations over the last 20 years as well with my family. However, I have to say seeing 2021 for the first time at a social distanced TV celebration looked better than I expected. 2020 as a number could have been great if it were not for the pandemic. Lots of our vendors and product manufactures put a lot of effort into developing products that revolved around 2020. One even had 20 new colors that were introduced in 2020.
2021 is a New Year and it is a positive year for many reasons. We have a new vaccine which brings hope to all of us. We’ve seen the economy recover from the crashes in 2020. With regards to construction, the pace of new homes, home sales and renovations has not slowed down. Unlike 2008, this housing boom is NOT a bubble. The current boom is barely able to keep up with the demand for new housing. Housing sales outpace homes built which is good for the seller. Even with cost increased as a result of disrupted supply chains, housing did not slow down.
So what does this mean for you?
We’ve also been busy coming up with new ways to improve our process and find better ways of constructing homes that will benefit you. We’ve also entered into some solid strategic partnerships that will help us with your projects.
2020 in review
We rebooted our YouTube channel to create content to explain building science and design options for your home. We created a playlist dedicated to fresh air and ventilation. Thanks to you- we’ve received close to 100K since we started “YouTubing” again.
We created some DIY content for Hometalk to help people have some fun projects to work on during quarantine.
We formed a partnership with a green building directory called Rate It Green. Our article on Energy Recovery Ventilators got thousands of views and we have been creating content for their YouTube Channel.
This increased access to manufacturers that want for us to help promote their products means that we get better customer service from them for your projects.
In addition to the Youtube channel, and New Strategic Partnerships we launched our website on a more blog-friendly platform so we can share our thoughts and ideas with you all more frequently.
Plans for 2021
Continue to interview manufacturers so you all can learn about the latest building products for your home or business.
We are known for renovations. However, we will be promoting new homes built to EarthCraft House and LEED for Homes standards. We’ve seen an uptick in new home requests and want to make sure they are healthy, comfortable, and energy-efficient.
We will continue to explore advanced home construction techniques to make your home better.
Many still believe that a house needs to have air leaks in order to breathe through “natural ventilation”
The myth that “a house needs to breathe” is still considered a fact by many. 100 years ago, houses did not have thermal control via insulation. Back then, air movement in the building helped dry the structure out in the wet season using natural ventilation. This was 100 years ago, and today our standards for comfort and health are much greater. We no longer burn wood or coal as a primary heat source. We also don’t want to give half our paycheck to the utility company to have conditioned air and hot water.
This pandemic has brought to light many building science principles include ventilation and air filtration. The experts recommend that we wear a mask that filters the air before it reaches our nose or mouth and gets transported to our lungs when pathogens or harmful particulates are in the air. OSHA even requires this for our workers. Especially when working around materials such as drywall that have silica that can cause lung damage. Most prefer a tight-fitting mask to one that allows particulates to enter your lungs.
Education is the key
Several weeks ago, I engaged with several builders on a forum. One of them brought up the antiquated concept that that building must be leaky to breathe. I was polite and stated that the current consensus is that we must “build tight (no holes) and ventilate right.” Not to mention that the energy code also requires insulation and air sealing to reduce the energy needed to operate the house and keep it comfortable.
Like your body, you want to control where the air comes into the house. A mask that has holes in it is not effective. When you bring “fresh air” into the built environment, you want to control where it is coming in. Air coming in from a musty crawlspace or attic that is full of coal residue should not be considered FRESH.
Current building codes and green building standards state that air should enter the structure through a controlled ventilation system. The air will be filtered (for pollutants), and the air could be conditioned as well. Fresh air brought either directly into the HVAC system OR a balanced air system such as an Energy Recovery Ventilator should be installed. Cold air in the Winter or “hot and humid” air coming in during the Summer will increase the heating or cooling needed to condition the air. Conditioning air for humans to be comfortable is one of the top demands on our energy supply.
Top Ventilation Solutions
Most of the top green building programs require “whole house ventilation” systems to be installed. Some newly constructed homes may reap the benefits of updated building codes and new building science techniques recommended by green building programs. We build to the standards set by EarthCraft House and LEED for Homes. These same whole building ventilation strategies should be implemented when design HVAC systems for existing homes as well. We recommend finding and sealing all air leaks, improving the insulation, and then designing the ventilation system. If these steps are completed out of order, then the HVAC system may not work properly.
Balanced Ventilation- Neutral Pressure Systems
Neutral Pressure Ventilation Systems bring in fresh air from the outside while expelling polluted air from the inside. Systems such as Energy Recovery Ventilators can exchange the energy from the conditioned and humidity. Hence, the “fresh air” comes into the structure at a similar temperature and humidity level as the house’s existing air. I have an article and several videos listed below that explain the science behind ERV.
Balanced Ventilation- Positive Pressure Systems
Positive Pressure Ventilation Systems bring fresh air from the outside directly to the HVAC system’s return side. This air is filtered and conditioned as it mixes with the existing conditioned air in the house. If the humidity levels are not ideal, humidity control systems can either add or take away humidity from the incoming air depending on the time of the year.
Let us help you fix your home [holes & ventilation]
Our team can help make your house more comfortable, healthy, and energy-efficient, whether designing a custom new home or renovating an existing structure.
Contact us today to get a free phone assessment of your needs so we can schedule the appropriate next steps to solve your problems.
Additional Resources
Here is an article that I wrote for a Green Building Website called Rate It Green that explains ERV in more detail:
Indoor Air Quality, aka “IAQ,” has received lots of attention recently. The world has just started exploring the quality of air and how to make it better. Green building programs have been aware of this for decades and have some good building science principles already in place. We don’t have to “reinvent the wheel.”
Thought Leadership and Green Building
We’ve been renovating and building for over 40 years in the Atlanta market. SawHorse was the first firm to offer design + build for remodeling in Atlanta. We were the first contractor to partner with Southface to renovate homes using the EarthCraft checklist. Our promise to our clients is that we will maintain a culture that is forward-thinking and constantly improving.
A major part of green building is making sure the built environment occupants are safe and healthy.
Commitment to improving your home’s Air Quality
One major cause of health issues in houses is bad indoor air quality. The EPA says that the pollution INSIDE the house can be 2-5 times worse than outside air. For that reason, we launched a campaign called FRESH AIR FRIDAYS. We will share a new video each Friday dealing with Indoor Air Quality (IAQ).
Here is a link to our IAQ video playlist created to help you keep your family safe and healthy.
If there is a topic that you would like for us to cover, please leave a comment below OR leave a comment on our YouTube channel.
For dealing with Covid-19 and Indoor Air Quality in Your Homes and Workplace
Update: We posted this right as the pandemic forced us to stay at home. Many of these suggestions are still valid post pandemic to keep your family healthy.
The CDC, EPA, and other agencies give us practical ways to prevent the spread of the Covid-19 virus, such as social distancing and washing hands. While these are essential, there are additional steps you can take to improve indoor air quality. We took a look at some of these last week in a short video on how to design for situations like these; however, the immediate feedback was, “What can we do now?” So our team created a list of “Things to Do NOW,” but we discovered just as many “Things NOT to DO” that isn’t showing up on current lists.
Our list is based on advice from the CDC, EPA, and OSHA with extra green building tips that comply with the building code. Green building is not just “energy efficiency,” it also targets the occupants’ safety and health. Indoor Air Quality is just as important as disinfecting, and both need to be considered during this current crisis.
I’ve been listening to town hall meetings, watching webinars, and doing additional research to make sure we are getting the latest information to our clients and partners. Even with that effort, NEW information will come up as we learn more about this particular virus and its behavior. Much of the advice we received was based on how the flu behaves, and the assumption is that Covid-19 will behave similarly.
I am a licensed contractor with a focus on high-performance and healthy buildings. My company, SawHorse, Inc., has completed hundreds of home performance assessments in the Atlanta area and has renovated hundreds of homes using our building science expertise. Even with decades of experience, there is still much to learn, and this article will continue to evolve as we learn about Covid-19.
Disclaimer: This is information gathered for you to understand the importance of thinking through the situation. I’ve provided reference links to items as needed to support these claims so you can do your own research as well.
Do NOW
1. DO- Self-Quarantine with ANY sickness.
This is pretty obvious and all over the news to do; however, I still see LOTS of people in public coughing then contaminating surfaces by touching them. Covid-19 is not the only virus out there. We still have the flu, common cold, and other pathogens that we can contain in addition to Covid-19.
…for cleaning hands thoroughly (20 seconds or more) and for cleaning most surfaces. If you plan to disinfect, then you need to clean the surface with soap and water first, or the dirt may soak up all of the disinfect so it will not be able to attack the pathogens.
Save the hand sanitizer for “on the road” in situations where you don’t have access to soap and water. You still need to use soap and water to CLEAN your hands when you get access. The sanitizer only kills certain pathogens but does not clean. ALSO- it does NOT kill certain microbes you might pick up from the bathroom, so always try to use soap and water.
…such as doorknobs, countertops, and other surfaces you see people touching all the time. Clean hourly or more often inactive workplaces on the “high touch surfaces.”
…(after cleaning)- and follow the instructions. The key here is to use only ONE disinfectant on the “high touch” surface to avoid unwanted chemical reactions. See NOT TO DO LIST below. It would be best if you also observed the “Dwell Time,” which is the amount of time the surface must remain wet to be effective against the pathogen. If you spray the surface and immediately wipe it off, you probably did NOT disinfect the surface. Most disinfectants have a dwell time of 10 minutes, so 10 seconds will NOT give you the desired effect.
READ THE INSTRUCTIONS ON THE DISINFECTANT AND COMPARE TO MANUFACTURER’S “RECOMMENDED CLEANERS’ LIST FOR BEST RESULTS
Additional reading for office disinfecting through 3rd parties:
NOTE: If you live in a humid climate DON’T leave the windows open now due to humidity which can cause other indoor air quality issues such as mold. Allergy season is upon us as well.
6. DO– Leave shoes at the door.
It seems obvious, and most of our parents told us to do this growing up, however many of us are not doing it at home right now. If you are still not convinced, shoes can track bacteria, toxins such as herbicides + Lead, and dirt, which means you have to clean again.
Covid-19 can live 1 hour to 1 day on cardboard. You can open carefully and leave the cardboard outside or spray with Lysol and bring it in several minutes later. Even if it could live on the package, it is most likely NOT on it. The contents are probably safe as well, unless they were packed hours ago.
9. DO- Change the HVAC air filter
…(some of us are in pollen season). Hopefully, your HVAC tech sold you at least a MERV-13 filter. If not, you can still get decent 1” filters that take out some of the larger particles floating around in the air. Consider upgrading to a 4” or 6” pleated filter with a certified HVAC company since it is NOT a DIY task.
It seems counterintuitive when we’re asked to stay home, but walking or biking away from crowds is safe. The air is also cleaner now since the dramatic reduction in-car use and manufacturing since this pandemic. Take advantage of the cleaner air if you don’t have allergies.
11. DO- Change out your hand, kitchen, and bath towels daily.
These are breeding grounds for unwanted microbes.
Don’t Ever Do
1. DON’T Mix Chemicals
Chlorine + Ammonia OR Chlorine + Alcohol can cause unwanted chemical and toxic reactions. If you are not sure, don’t use bleach to be safe in combination with other cleaners. Contact the manufacturer’s website or call their technical centers for clarification.
Here are a few toxic combinations that are avoidable: Dawn dish soap (Denatured Alcohol) + Clorox Bleach (Chlorine) OR Windex (Ammonia) + Clorox Bleach (Chlorine)
These chemicals used on the same surface even hours apart are not recommended since the first application’s residue may react with the 2nd chemical.
NOTE: We are NOT stating to avoid these brands. Windex can be “Ammonia-Free,” and Clorox can be “Bleach Free.” The products with Ammonia and Bleach can still be used, just not near each other. Please ventilate since they are not good for you to breathe or touch with your skin.
…after you wash them by touching doors or faucets.
Here is the recommended approach to washing hands:
Before I go over this step by step, I will mention that water conservation IS important; however, not all faucets will allow for this without recontamination. Only faucets that have levers where you can use wrists or elbows will work. Otherwise, leaving the water on it is the best option.
Wet hands with water
Apply soap and scrub hands and wrists (20 sec or so)
Rinse
Grab a towel and turn off the faucet
Dry hands. Pathogens thrive on damp hands.
3. DON’T Wear common dust masks
…if you are NOT sick- they are not effective. Do wear if you are sick to help spread your pathogens to others. Plus, workers who actually need them cannot work safely to protect themselves in dusty environments if there is no supply for them.
Ozone is considered an air pollutant on most indoor air quality charts and, at certain levels, will harm your lungs, skins, and surfaces in your house. The best way to clean air is with a fan + filter combination.
If the humidity is too low or below 40% Relative Humidity (RH), pathogens like the flu thrive. The sweet spot for humidity is between 40% and 60%. I personally prefer around 49% in my environment. RH above 60% creates ideal environments for mold, dust mites, and some pathogens as well.
…if you have to leave your house or office while the heat is still on- turn it to cooling mode so the AC can kick on so you won’t return to a moldy environment. This only applies for an extended period of time.
…that has been out of use and turn on the water without maintenance personnel clearing the water for use. Otherwise, you can get legionnaire’s disease which has some of the same symptoms as Covid-19.
Every cleaner or disinfectant that makes a claim MUST register with the EPA. The EPA confirms that the product is safe for YOU to use and meets the packaging’s claims. NO ONE CAN CLAIM TO KILL COVID-19 BECAUSE THEY HAVE NOT TESTED THEM YET. Everyone is only assuming that these products will work against COVID-19 since they work against similar strains.
VOC stands for Volatile Organic Compound. If the name does not scare you, then knowing that they can cause damage to your health and home should be reason enough to avoid them. Many products used to clean and build houses have VOCs and are easy to avoid if you look at the packaging. For instance, you can get NO or LOW VOC paints offered by most paint manufacturers.
…than prescribed- more does not clean better. You are adding more chemicals causing more chemistry to happen, which can damage you, the surface you are cleaning, and/ or pollute the air.
Good sites for green building or indoor air quality (not already linked):
In 1776, Thomas Paine stated that “THESE are the times that try men’s souls. The summer soldier and the sunshine patriot will, in this crisis, shrink from the service of their country; but he that stands by it now, deserves the love and thanks of man and woman.”
I have seen so many people already helping each other, and as I read stories on social media about how we are helping each other out. Our connections and willingness to help out demonstrate that the human spirit will prevail and help us through this crisis.
1. Help your neighbors that cannot get out
2. Support a local business that is still offering services in a safe manner
3. Help the technically challenged with getting Skype and other communication technology set up
4. Call friends or family that you know are alone to check on them
5. Only enact “social distancing” in the physical environment- Be kind and help others through this crisis.
6. Donate to local food banks to help those in need if you are able
Picking out windows and doors for your home is a big decision. If you make the wrong choice, then you will be replacing them sooner than later. There are many manufactures on the market and in this post we will explore the options for Marvin Windows and Doors.
New Names for Old Windows Lines
Marvin has recently decided to change up the names for their windows to there is less confusion. The original line of windows and doors was just called “Marvin Windows and Doors.” These included their solid wood doors and windows and the wood core windows and doors with aluminum cladding.
They also has a line of called Integrity Windows and Doors that had a fiberglass core with wood cladding on the interior. They also had a line that was solid fiberglass with no wood classing called Integrity All-Ultrex.
In 2019, they rebranded bringing all of the lines under the name Marvin. They have renamed the types of windows and doors and added a few new lines as well.
Marvin Signature Collections
Marvin has 2 different lines within the Signature Collections. The “Ultimate” Collection is the more traditional and in line with the old Marvin Windows and Doors brand. They have also added a “Modern” collection to the Marvin Signature collections as well.
“Ultimate” Collection
The Marvin Signature Ultimate collection is an wood core for the windows and doors within the collection. One options is for an all wood window or doors with no cladding- just the wood. The option that we recommend is the wood core with aluminum cladding to protect the sash and the frame from the elements. The aluminum cladding is extruded with a durable finish coated with Kynar.
“Modern” Collection
The Marvin Signature Modern Collection is the same as the Ultimate collection, except that it is designed to look more modern. The intent was to create a sash and frame that looks like a store front window. This line performs better than store front windows since they are more durable, energy efficient and DON’T LEAK! They have also increase the maximum dimensions of the Modern collection to give architects and designers more flexibility with their designs.
Marvin Essential Series
The Marvin Essential Series is an all fiberglass window and door. It was previously called Marvin All-Ultrex. Fiberglass is much stronger and more durable than other non wood options such as PVP and Aluminum. Fiberglass and expands and contracts at the same rate as the glass in the window which helps the lifespan of the glass and prevents glass failure.
Marvin Elevate Series
The Marvin Elevate Series is fiberglass like the essential series, however there is an option to add wood cladding on the interior. This gives you the look of a traditional Marvin product with the durability of the fiberglass core. The fiberglass windows also rate slightly better energy wise than the wood with aluminum cladding.
Which window and door is best for your project?
That is a good question and it really depends on the design. For the projects that we work on our “go- to” window is elevate since it is price competitive and worry free when is comes to maintenance. We also learned from feedback from our clients that they want the option to change of the color in the future. The fiberglass is easier to prep and paint than the Kynar finish on the Signature collection.
Even though you can paint the fiberglass, you don’t need to. The Marvin Elevate, Essential and Signature all come prefinished so no paint is needed on the exterior of the window. The essential is all fiberglass and the color is consistent on the interior and the exterior of the window.
If you need help with the design or construction of your home, contact us today so we can share even more options with you.
Thank You! Houzz just awarded us “Best of Houzz 2020” for customer service. We were not expecting this award and we got it because of people like you. We are honored that you all had such great things to say about us. The SawHorse staff will keep working to exceed your expectations moving forward as well.
Most awards require a submission package or nomination from a 3rd party. In this case, these requirements . Houzz awarded us “Best of Houzz 2020” based on your projects, reviews and engagement with our profile.
How we use Houzz.com
We have been using Houzz as a tool to help you all organize your projects and share ideas that you like with us. We’ve also created some ideabooks like the one listed below to give you all idea about what is possible for your home.
In addition to projects portfolios and ideabooks, Houzz also has a place to leave testimonials. They “review the reviews” and this will take several days to vet them before they populate. Unlike other social media sites, this extra step insures that you all are reading real feedback from real people that have worked with SawHorse.
Houzz.com provides tools that help you share ideas with us and we created a video to better explain how to use this function. The “Ideabook” allows for you to organize your thought and ideas and share them with us with through Houzz.com. For instance, when you plan to renovate a room in your house, you create an ideabook for that space. If you plan to renovate multiple rooms, you have the ability to create multiple ideabook.
Let us help you get started
If you need assistance with your projects, contact us so and we will get you started with these tools. Our team will begin with collecting your thoughts and ideas and assist you to project completion.
The answer is most likely YES for most minor and major renovations. If you are painting the house or doing minor repairs, they will probably tell you that you don’t need one; however, it is up to the building department to do so. If you start a project without permission and get caught, they will issue a “stop-work order,” and you cannot begin again until you have a permit to do so.
The city does not have a list of items that don’t require a permit. They have a general statement to call in and ask.
Types of projects that might need a permit:
Demolish existing house to clear a lot for new construction
Move a sewer
Build a new home
Attic addition
Window replacement– you will need elevations and a site plan now as part of the plan package.
Attic addition
Remove trees
Kitchen renovation
Bathroom renovation
Basement renovation
Front porch addition- this may require a variance as well- see below for what can trigger needing a variance.
Deck OR porch addition
Retaining wall next to a city sidewalk
Driveway curb cut
Fence replacement
There are more, and I’ll keep adding to this
Licensing requirements
To pull a permit for your renovation and do work on your house, I have to have a license with the State of GA. If you came upon this post in a random search- here is a link to make sure your contractor is licensed- Georgia Secretary of State If they ask for you to pull a “Homeowner’s Permit,” they are probably not licensed and this could affect your project. Getting a license is not easy and requires that the contractor first meet the requirements to take the test. Once the licensing board approves the application, the contractor must then pass the contractor’s licensing test. If they cannot pass this test, they should not be working on your house since they would be putting your family’s safety in danger by not knowing the building codes.
Applicable Codes:
The Georgia Secretary of State manages the testing and licensing for professionals that need them.
As a licensed-professional, we must follow the building codes adopted by the city of Atlanta. The State of GA has adopted new building codes, which the City of Atlanta will be implemented beginning January 1, 2020. The “uniform building code” is comprised of Code editions include the below:
International Building Code (IBC) 2018 Edition with GA Amendments (commercial)
International Residential Code (IRC) 2018 Edition with GA Amendments
International Plumbing Code (IPC) 2018 Edition with GA Amendments
International Mechanical Code (IMC) 2018 Edition with GA Amendments
International Fuel Gas Code (IFGC) 2018 Edition with GA Amendments
International Energy Conservation Code (IECC) 2015 Edition with GA Amendments
International Fire Code (IFC) 2018 Edition with GA Amendments
International Swimming Pool and Spa Code (ISPSC) 2018 Edition with GA Amendments
Life Safety Code- NFPA 101 Life Safety Code 2018 Edition
As a licensed contractor, we can pull the building permits for your home. Our mechanical trades (electrician, plumber, and HVAC) To pull a permit, we will need to fill out an application and have plans as part of the permit package.
Typical plans needed to pull a permit:
Whole house renovation (interior being gutted to the studs)
In the past, this would be a simple plan set if no walls were moving; however, more plans are needed due to stricter enforcement of the codes, and the scope of work is increased as well. Here is a full list of the plans needed and why the city requires them
Survey and site plan– They have been asking for these anytime we affect any part of the exterior to include window/ door replace. We had a project earlier this year that just had a couple windows being updated and this triggered a whole list of plans needed. The survey needs to be current and stamped by a surveyor. This applies to the site plan as well.
Floor plans- The city likes to see the house the way it was before we start construction and the way it will look after construction. These plans are called “as-built” or “existing” for the current layout and “proposed” for the future layout.
Electrical plans– With the “proposed” layout we will overlay where we plan to put key electrical items such as:
Smoke detectors
Carbon Monoxide detectors
Lighting for halls/ stairs per code
Outlets per code in key locations such as next to the front and rear doors and on kitchen islands/ back splashes. They verify MOST of these on the plans, however the code official still has the right to enforce the NEC (electrical) code when they inspect the house. They might ask for additional items be added to the scope that are not on the plans in order to insure the safety of the house.
Structural plan– If any part of the structure is altered then they want to make sure the changes to the structure are designed properly. It is best to have a structural engineer review or draw and stamp the structural drawings. In the case of the house that is being gutted, we will need structural drawings because the existing structure of the house does not meet code (lack of headers and roof support).
Exterior elevations– Whenever a window or door is replaced (even in the same spot) the city wants to see an elevation. They want to make sure the window is designed properly to account for the following:
If it is in a bedroom it needs to have a minimum sized opening in case of a fire (egress)
Based on the height off the floor or proximity of the window to a shower or door, the glass may need to be tempered for safety reasons. I’ll make a list of window requirements in a separate post.
HVAC design– as part of the new energy code, the HVAC needs to be designed using the following manuals:
Manual J– this is to properly size and specify the equipment
Manual D– this is to design the duct-work for efficient conditional air delivery
Energy Plan– since the house is being gutted and we are affecting more than 50% of the house we have to bring it up to the current energy code (IECC). This is where it can get tricky. We already planned on upgrading the insulation since all of it was damaged and the HVAC was damaged as well. We might also have to address the windows since they do not meet the current energy code. If we elect to NOT do any of the items on the IECC checklist, then we must demonstrate with an energy model that we are using the same or less energy by upgrading other items in the house. For instance, the windows may be able to stay if insulation and HVAC get upgraded to the point of offsetting the extra energy cost. These are called “trade offs”. The 2018 IECC also has a lot of new insulation details that need to be followed so be aware of the new upgraded insulation R-values and techniques needed.
Another scenario that will require more plans than you think you should need:
Bathroom renovation (no structural alteration):
The city likes to see the bathroom layout plus the full layout of the level that the bathroom is on. The details for the main level do not need to be as sharp as the proposed details for the bathroom. The city has been enforcing this for many years now.
Since you are affecting the electrical- they will more than likely ask for you to update the smoke detectors and carbon monoxide detectors as well- FOR THE WHOLE HOUSE. If you update one of them, you have to make sure it can interconnect with ALL of the others ones. They have to be in halls/ common areas + one in each bedroom. The State of GA updates the building constantly so we check with the city and our electricians before starting the process.
Many other items are needed to get a permit. This list demonstrates the more significant items needed to pull a permit in the City of Atlanta for basic renovations. If you are expanding the house’s footprint or building a new house, the list is even longer. I’ll post what requirements for new home construction and variances are in future posts.
If you need help creating your dream home or renovation plans, don’t hesitate to get in touch with us today.
Sandy Springs is the 6th largest city in Georgia and second largest in metro Atlanta according to its website. In 2005, Sandy Springs incorporated and started to provide some of its own services. This included providing building permits and inspections. SawHorse enjoys working with our clients in Sandy Springs. We are very familiar with the requirements to get permits and inspections for your new custom home, custom renovations or light commercial projects.
The city of Atlanta has a reputation for strict guidelines and standards that need to be met in order to get a permit. Compared to the City of Atlanta, getting a permit in Sandy Springs used to be much easier. It can be argued that Sandy Springs is more challenging that the City of Atlanta with the adoption of its latest zoning ordinance in 2017.
Since 2005, several things have changed in their permitting and enforcement process. Here are some items you need to be aware of if you still working off the old permit checklist:
New Zoning changes in 2017
Survey and Site Plan Requirements for your permit
You will need a full “tree and topography” survey for any addition that you work on. Check the date on your survey. You might need a new one because the zoning has changed in September of 2017. A comprehensive survey is standard for all municipalities now, not just Sandy Springs.
The new zoning codes can be found on this site Some of the changes that could impact your property might be changes such as the side yard setback increase from 10 feet to 15 feet depending on your zoning.
You will need to survey your property and parts of your neighbors property. Most surveyors only survey your property, however here are several items on the checklist that need to be added to the survey or site plan:
Sandy Springs officials are very helpful and willing to meet with you/ us before submitting the permit documents. They take appointments every Thursday to review any questions and offer guidance on how to navigate the new codes. We have set up meetings for each of our current and prospective clients. We have come away from them with a better understand of how they will enforce the zoning and building codes.
Other permit considerations
Pools– their checklist states that “Pool Permit will be required prior to SFASP approval. See Pool Permit Checklist…” NOTE– we got a pool permit first on one of our projects according to this checklist, however in a plan review they asked why we got a pool permit separate from the building permit. Next time we will apply for both at the same time. The note on the checklist since there is internal confusion at this time.
The Chattahoochee River runs through Sandy Springs. If you are planning a project within 1000 feet of it you need to get special approval. Contact ARC- Atlanta Regional Commission.
Neighbors Trees– Must create an escrow account to hold funds for trees that could be damaged on neighbors property as stated in 9.3.8 E:
Where the City Arborist determines that due to approved construction or land disturbance activity an applicant may remove a tree pursuant to the terms of this Article, and the applicant is required to pay for the lost tree canopy of the removed tree, the applicant may, at its election, propose alternative construction or site design methods to attempt to preserve the continued viability of the tree. Should the City Arborist determine that the proposed alternative construction or site design methods will reasonably result in the survival of the tree, that portion of the funds required to pay for the lost tree canopy of the tree pursuant to this Article must be paid into an escrow fund maintained by the City.
We can help you
We will continue to edit this as we learn more and get feedback on on different projects. I’ll also create a list of items to be expected in ALL municipalities based on state codes.
Don’t let all of these items dissuade from doing your project. If you do not have a design team yet, please contact us. We will guide you through the design and permitting process. If you already have a set of plans can can still help with permitting and construction.
